grufti

Première Wave Gotik Treffen / part. 1 

Aprés plus de 20 ans à espérer poser mes pikes à Leipzig pour la cultissime WGT j’ai enfin réalisé mon rêve cette année. 

Tout était en place pour qu’enfin je ne rate pas ce rendez vous: tunes, mec qui conduit et surtout que ça ne tombe pas sur un week end ou je bosse ( même si on considère souvent que je n’en ai pas un ). Jusqu’au dernier moment j’ai croisé les doigts pour qu’aucune merde ne me tombe dessus. 


Et enfin on est partis. C’était le 30 mai dernier. Avec notre caravane. Par contre un peu à l’arrache sans rien réserver. Ce n’est pas forcément à faire mais bon, trop planifier ça ne nous réussit pas ! 

Bref, on a trouver une place au bord d’un trés joli lac. Que demander de plus. 


Le lendemain nous avons découvert la ville, étonnement préservée par rapport à Stuttgart ou Francfort par exemple. Je n’ai pas pris  de photos, j’ai surtout profité du lieu et de la découverte. La ville est un peu un petit Berlin, y compris niveau squatts d’artistes. Il faut dire qu’il y a beaucoup de bâtiments libres, de friches industrielles. Ça m’a rappelé ma jeunesse quand j’allais souvent dans le Port Du Rhin côté allemand pour des soirées et faire de la sérigraphie. 


On a aussi récupéré le bracelet qui allait nous ouvrir les portes du festival. L’excitation était monté d’un cran.  Ça faisait des lustres que je n’avais pas vu autant de corbacs en un seul endroit.C’était fascinant et réconfortant. D’habitude je suis plutôt isolée. C’est vraiment rare de croiser des goths, même dans les grandes villes. Là c’etait magique et pendant trois jours ça allait l’être. 

Suite demain ! 

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My feelings about Elitism and labels in Goth Subculture

Since a while there are plenty of blogs, tweets, fb status, videos about elitism and / or labels in our subculture. I thinked about blogging about for a long time. Is it accurate to add my opinion to the long, long list of opinions already done. 

Finally i can’t resist to the call because i’ve red some wrong things, and i want answer to those points. 

 Many  baby bats are complaining about elitism. The fact it’s often they see in goth subculture only something superficial, fashionable, glamourous fueled by some brands and archetypes. Goth is just wearing black and wear spooky ( but sexy if possible ) things. The reality is a bit different. Yes, many goths love wearing clothes, nice jewelry and make up. It’s in our blood since the begining. But there are goth who really don’t care and they are more goth than many of baby bat i see on social medias. Why ? Because they know the roots of our subculture. It’s not something elitist to say that’s important to know where we come from. Look i’m artist, and during my studies i learned something important, and you can apply it to all domains even goth: you can’t erase the past, the roots, the history because those things make what you are and will be. Knowledge is the key in all domains for going forward. 

For our subculture, it’s important to be linked with music, because our subculture is really music rooted. We are born of music first, late 70s, kids of punk and from the music we build our whole culture adding literature, movies and art. And fashion of course but it’s an epiphenomenom. 

My feelings is, if you want to be really a part of goth subculture, work on and learn. You know as an elder goth i remember when i was a baby bat during the 90s. I see, being a goth bartender helped me, many people in goth parties. Often the more into goth fashion police and bad thongues with others are those who weren’t the less in the subculture. We are not a lot, now, truly goth ( i don’t talk about fashion of course but state of mind ), with social medias i follow time to time some people i met during the 90s and frankly, often i was surprised by what they like, share or talk about. Are they really the 90s uber goth i met ? Yes, often it was just a phase, that’s true. 


Now let’s talk about labels in our subculture. I must admit i’m really fed up by labels because i think if we have the same roots why we need labels ? I hate put people in boxes and i think we’re all the result of mixing influences which emerged with goth subculture. We are just focusing on some different influences according to our personality, education and personnal tates including ungoth ones. 

I don’t care if you are victorian, mopey, pastel or wathever you want. The important thing is if we can discuss gently, not targeting others, just have fun with links builded by being in a same subculture. 

I have this feeling labels become so important. When i was young there were only two labels ” cool people ” and ” douchebags” . There was really enough. 

My first syntetic dreads attempt 

Hi Shadows, 

Friday i attempted for the first time the installation of dreads. I wanted to try since long, but my hair skills are really shitty. My sister was hairdresser but she is still busy and i don’t want take her time for myself. I’ve watched a lot of tutorials on youtube. I keep those which seemed the more clear for me and rewatched them. I ordered ready made dreads because i’m too busy for handmade them myself. But clearly it’s an option. 

 

Here i was at half of my head. Luckily i.m under cutted and just have hair on the top. I think it was more easy than a full head. 


Full hair done. First sensations are strange. Your head is heaviest. But i feel also more feminine. 

I need to work after my attempt, so i quickly try a bun 


Just with a stick in. It’s giving volume very easily and this is perfect. I don’t need to backcomb hair which really kill them. 

Yesterday we.ve gone to thrift. I’ve tried a side braid, i think it will be my favourite hair style. 


It was very easy to sleep on. But my partly shaved hair probably helped me. First impressions are so good that i’ve ordered beautiful handmade dreads i’ve seen, in a purple mix for the next time. 

Little FAQ: 

Who’s tutorial you used ? 

First those, really well done, of  Kerosene , i also used some of  Tez Mania and the one Goblin Queen just released before my installation. 

How many dreads you used ? 

Less then a complete head i think. I’ve used 8 double dreads ( tardis blue ) and 22 simple dreads. ( purple and black ) 

How was the pose ? 

The pose took me 2 hours and a half. I think next time i will go quickly. You need too section well your hair for a regular pose. I’ve done my installation on a little wet hair, it’s more easy to catch. I used two types of dreads: simple and double. My feeling is double are better, more easy to braid and softer on your hair. Next time i will install mostly double ones. 

I will also mix thicker ones for more volume. I will show you of course. You need to reinstall your dreads each 4/7 weeks. I think i will do it after 4 weeks. 
The next step will be the first shampoo. When you have dread one or two per week are sufficient. You need too wash very carefully the roots. 

Hope this help you if you want to try synthetic dreads. Mine came from Dreadshop, but you can find awesome handmade ones on etsy or ebay. It’s reusable. I’ve ordered my next dreads from Little market for example ( a kind of french version of Etsy ) 
 

Sunglasses time: nice eyeswear for sunny days 

Hi Shadows, 
I don’t know how the weather is near you, but here sun is finally back. I must admit i love spring and summer, you can go outside almost everyday, in the nature. But as all goth, what wearing is still a big deal. For the moment it’s not so hot, and i focus on my eyes. Finding nice sunglasses is a goal. Here some hints: 


1) Moon sunglasses / Dollskills 2) Fang wing sunglasses / Karmaloop 3) cobweb shades / Spitfire Interiors 4)Goth sunglasses / World Wide Witch 5) Framed sunglasses/ Aranwen 6)Bat framed sunglasses/ Emerald Angel 7) Moon stone sunglasses/ A Rock On A Lens 8) la e frame sunglasses/ Flashback and freedom 9) metal lace sunglasses / ZeroUv 

Outfit of the day: Birthday with family 

Hi Shadows, 

Today i’m turning 43. I’m into goth since 25 years ! So much things happened and time flies so fast. This evening we did the family party and tomorrow it will be just with my man, his son and my best friend. We will play shamanic drums in the woods on the top of a nice hill above the valley. Promise, i will post about shamanic drums practice and why i’m practicing. 

Well, back to this evening. 

Simple and comfy. I wore my witchy winkelpickers from Goth Pikes. 

Laced legging from Poizen Industries 

Here a close up, i love the fishnet through which you can see my tattoos. I have another one laced up on leg sides. 



Velvet and cotton embroidered top by Holy Clothing my favorite brand 

Bat necklace by Restyle and altered by me, other necklaces from Ebay, sleeveless cardigan from Bershka. 


Wolf head hair clip from Bloody Frills 

I never use white foundation, my skin is pale by nature and frankly i never really understand why so white face ? I will have the feeling to be a sad clown. It’s one of the stereotypes i don’t need. When i was a baby bat i don’t remember people with white face make up. 

What do you think, am i wrong ? 

Cheers ! 

Tattoo appointment report

Hi little ghosts, 

last week i had a tattoo appointment with my favorite tattoo artist, Leanka from Lucky Electric. She did an amazing work. Most of my tattos are from her hand. I trust her completely. I think the relationship between you and your tattoo artist is VERY important. Even for one little tat’ 

i will do a more complete post about tattoos, being tattooed and how to do or not do when you want a tattoo. 

My new tattoo was for my leg, a large snake , from foot to thigh between my other tats. When it’s a place like legs or arm you need to think how you dress for being confortable during the work and after especially if have something else to do before being back home. 

I choose one of my comfy dress from Holyclothing. I wore over knee socks, no battle with shitty thights and one of my comfy pikes

Ready for my rendezvous ! I’m still a little bit nervous before a tattoo because you never know which pain you will have. Especially with a big one which begins on foot and continue alongside your leg. 


i took a photo during the appointment but i deleted it last evening while i cleaned my photo feed. Well it’s not very important actually. 

Here is the snake. I think it took 3 or 4 hours. Don’t remember because we still talk and laugh a lot. Time flew fast. My tattoos are not “goth” , i like old school coloured tattoos and some tattoo artists close to lowbrow or outsider art style. I must confess that i’m not into usual goth art with  etheral girls/ bats / wolves/ roses/ cemeteries kitsch combo. I will talk about that in another post too ! 


the photo was taken the evening after my appointment. I will shoot it better when it’s healed. Next step will probably be the snake on my left leg, same size, same place but not same snake: i want the sand snake from Beetlejuice. He is a little bit more simple with his stripes, with less colors. The third and last steps will be finishing colors and correct lines on both. 

Have you tattoos ? Do you want tattoos ? 

Cheers ! 

WINKLEPICKERS addiction 

Winklepickers are the iconic shoes of goth culture. By the way, those shoes was worn first during the 50s by both sex and rock’n’roll lovers. They are inspired by medieval french boots called poulaines. You can find a lot of winklepickers style even with heels. You can call also call them Spikes. 

When i was a baby bat during the 90s we called them “witches” and my dream was to have a pairs but i hadn’t the money to afford its. I was very frustrated. Now i catches my frustration.  

I have seven pairs ! I wore pikes everyday out of my artist studio. When winter come i add furry thermal sole inside in the way to protect my feet. 

5 pairs come from The Gothic Shoes Compagny in UK

2 pairs come from Goth Pikes in Germany 

Both shops craft very good products. Both are small compagnies, and as an artist i prefer support small brands like people can support my small business. Let me present you my collection: 


This pairs come from GOTHIC SHOES UK. It was my first one. They have straps with nice bat buckles. They are very strong and i wore it for long walk in cities by bad weather for exemple. It’s my “work” boots. There is painting on one. They are so comfy ! 


The second pair i bought are this one, very simple, laced through d-rings. They are very comfy too. I wore it a lot, you can easily quickly put its on your feet. With my pagan dresses it’s just awesome. They came from the Gothic Shoes UK. 


Those are a birthday gift. They are perfect for warm weather and the ankle buckles are beautiful. I wore it also for exhibition opening or classy events i must go. From Gothic Shoes UK


I just fall in love for those boots from Gothic Shoes UK. I love the delicate details of the leather work. They give my feet a goth folk look. They are almost knee high. 


i found those ones on ebay for very few bucks. They are from Goth Shoes UK too. Simple style with zip. The material is soft. And keep all cat hair around ah ah ah. 


The first pair i bought from GOTH Pikes Germany. I love the multiple straps and their high. I wore them for gigs, festival or parties. 


My last pair, from Goth Pikes. It’s their new style and i’m weak, i bought them. Very easy to wear for all occasion, with dress, with leggings, with mini skirt…. If you search a pair you can wear even at work i think those one could be the right choice. 

If you want affordable pikes some big brands like ASOS, Zara released pikes inspired shoes and boots. You can also be patient and find a good occasion on ebay for example. 

credit: Spontis

When the rainbow meets the darkness: LGBTQ and Goth relationship 

I’m involved in LGBTQ rights activism since mid 90s, in the same time i became involved in goth subculture too. 
First I became an activist after met some wonderful friends in University. We were very close. The second thing is that many people think i’m trans. I’m not, i’m a cis girl. The fact that people think i’m trans is not a problem for me but i discovered the violence against trans people. And this violence is often through words but could easily become a physical violence. 
As a cis girl I know really this bad side but my transgender friends are facing so much more:  administration, doctors and too much often alone, without family support. 
Family support is hard to have too when you’re queer, gay or lesbian too. It’s a shame, for me, that your own family let you alone because you are not what they want. A kid, a brother, a sister, a father, a mother are not just object you fulfill with your wishes, the more important is their wishes and how they need to live for being happy. 


However, back to the relationship between LGBTQ community and Goth community. after my own experience goth seems more inclusive. Perhaps our interests, our culture and our proper experience of being different help us to understand more minorities. 
I had friends who found with Goth places where they can be theyself. One can live free her desire to be male to female. She was just at the beginning of her transition and at goth parties she can wore dresses she love. I remember she came as a normal boy and change her clothes, make up and attire in the bathroom of the place we’ve done parties. With time she became more confident with the support of the community and finally came to parties as the girl she is. That’s an awesome example of support in our community. 

Caligo Bastet, Openly gay goth youtuber, link in the bottom of the post.

Same for gay ou lesbian couples. Some were build through parties of course but you have also secret couples. You know when you come for the first time i’m a place, you don’t know how will be the reactions. Often, slowly couples became more and more free because we were supportive and don’t care who you love or who you are deeply. 
But, there’s always a but, in goth scene you also have douchebags. Especially into industrial music ( yes i know, indus is not goth, but frankly seriously related to ). I’m agree, with industrial you have a part of far right ideas which stink a lot. I’ve heard, but it’s not fact checked, that some bands like Combichrist or VNV nation has some homophobic shit behind them. 
If you read this, especially baby bats, and you’re straight stay supportive and inclusive. You know too what is judgmental attitude, so be kind, don’t mess with people nature when this one will never hurt you. If you have, perhaps because of your education or whatever, some reluctance, try too push your limits. If not, you will perhaps loose a good friendship. Just open your mind. Rainbow could meet the darkness in a beautiful way ! 

Some links to go far: 

Caligo Bastet channel ( But youtube is now restricting LGBTQ  content !!!!!! So please if you have time to leave them a message on twitter, on their platform or any other social medias, please, do it ! It’s not the time to shut LGBTQ community up! Support LGBTQ youtubers  ) 

Young Queers Find comfort in the darkness 

Queer and Goth

LGBT GOTHS: What your scene ?

 

 

Make up goals: Cleopatra Style 

The last week was terrible. I’ve waited a very stressful appointment in hospital for my degenerative heart defect. I had several long tachycardias due to my stress which is not good for my heart health. 

However, during those shitty tachycardias hours, when I didn’t sleep I scroll Pinterest and and particularly make up. 

I love make up very much. I love especially eye make up. 

My favorite inspiration came from Egypt / 60s/ trad goth 80s and I have a pretty usual routine. Now, I want try some new things.  

 I show you my selection. 


Those make up will be great for quick daily routine. I really love oriental eyes with kajal.  I love the shape of the first one, but i need training ah ah ! 


Here, make up for day and for parties the Horus eye which is amazing. I don’t like the turquoise and I think I will replace it by purple. I like long lines and points.  I work my own make more like this with a white touch. I will show you my daily routine. 


The last is More post punk than trad goth but my favorite, opening eye like a manga girl. It’s a look from 1982, wore by Diane Lane in “Ladies and Gentlemen, the fabulous Stains ” movie. I really need to try, perhaps for a gig or a party. 

What are your make up goals ? 
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How package your jewelry for a trip 

Hi bats, 
My full time job is artist. In this way i usually travel a lot through France but also in Germany, Switzerland or Belgium. Like every trad goth a love BIG jewelleries, BIG and A LOT ! 

So one big question for me, I guess for goth ( and probably non goth people) is packaging well my jewelry ( after choosing during hours which necklaces, which earrings i take with me of course ) 
I took with me a lot of stuff for all occasions: exhibition opening, exhibition days, lazy days, travel days…. I love chain things and if I pack all together I will find a terrible node bag. 
If you experiment the same problems this is my solution. It’s not really glamour but very practical: pack carefully each necklace, bracelet, choker in a small plastic bag. I use small plastic bag for aliments fridge storage. And you can easily re use its from travel to travel 


It’s just perfect and now I can put all my mess in my bathroom bag even when i use my caravan ( generally from march to october ). 

Hope you find this useful and perhaps you have other kind of tips ?